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BACK ROADS OF NAYARIT (TRIP TO BOCA DE CHILA)
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I had read that Boca de Chila, which is located on the coast near Las Varas, Nayarit,was the first port in the area, several centuries ago. For some time we planned to go there, but just never got around to it even though it is a short trip compared to some of the backroad trips we have made.
Last Saturday, we packed a tailgate lunch – a couple of ham sandwiches, fruit and Caribe coolers, along with the usual goodies, shovel, tow chain, machete, and cellular telephone (we thought, but later learned we had forgot the phone). Our vehicle is a 1988 Toyota 4WD with camper shell. So far it hasn`t failed us; I always wonder what we would do if we are way out in the boondocks and it stops. Oh, well!
We left Rincon de Guayabitos at 0930, pit stopped for gas and went to the intersection of the carretera in Las Varas and heading in the direction of San Blas. Just under 2 miles down this paved 2 lane road we came to El Conchal (no sign, and not on most maps, but identified by Abarrotes Vero). Stopped and talked to the storekeeper, a middle aged lady. She was very cooperative and told us that we were in fact in El Conchal, and yes the road led to the beach. 
Off we went down a very narrow, but not too bad dirt/gravel road. A barbed wire fence lined both sides, so it wouldn`t do the pickup finish any good to stray. Almost immediately we come to a road leading to the right, but we continue on to the left, which appears to be the more used road. We pass a number of tobacco sheds and come to another cross road, and we turn right. (this after we went too far and asked for info at the small house just beyond the crossroad). We have now travelled a half Mile.
Vicky says “what happens if we are not going right”, and I say I don`t know. You know it`s very interesting to note that the lady in the tienda had lived here almost all of her life, but had never visited the playa (beach) at or near Boca de Chila. Having seen and lived in many parts of the world, it is just very hard for me to accept that anyone would not travel 4 miles in their lifetime to see a beautiful place nearby. I will say in her defense that there is no public transportation to Boca de Chila and it is very difficult to reach during the rainy season, except by sea. Yet I have found that people here know very little of the history even where they live. And, in spite of a few years education, they are not familiar with local geography, nor, for the most part, are they interested.
Continuing on we come to a small, but high, concrete bridge overlooking a small stream, that is concreted across. We stopped on the other side of the bridge because We see a monument and we are going over to read it. It simply says that the bridge was Constructed in 1997 and the names of the politicos in office at the time. Vicky decides that she is a little hungry, so we break out the coffee thermos and a have a snack.
We continue on down our little road, passing plowed fields, which are being prepared for tobacco and beans. Ahead we are starting to see palms and other greenery. we are now following the small stream. We pass a pretty little rancho with bananas and mangos. On our map the place has the likely name of The Mangos.
Vicky is a bird lover and has seen a number of birds, and is exited. At mile 2.4 we pass another little casita. A nice little shaded area with a fellow asleep in a hammock. life could.n`t be too bad here. Now a road takes off to the left, but we go straight. up to this point I could have travelled in a low clearance car, but now there are ruts and I wouldn`t want to try it in my ford escort. At mile 2.8 the road curves to the left and a road takes off to the right, which we ignore and keep guiding left. We then cross the stream, no problem, very shallow here. We are cruising at about 15 miles an hour, I could go faster but it is a beautiful day and I have great company.
We are getting close to coconut palms and we pass a couple of ranchitas with many dogs and mango trees. Needless to say, we have stopped many times so Vicky could check out birds with binoculars and bird books. For bird lovers I will name all birds that we encountered at the end of this story.
Now at mile 4.1 we pass through a beautiful jungle area, the road narrows and we exit onto a beach. Beautiful. If I were a beach, I would want to look just like this. 
A picture of some of the south seas islands I have visited. We just passed a sign which indicated that this is an archaeology zone. We see a long beach in both directions With a large scattering of coconut palms and leading into a mild surf and the blue pacific. The road goes on for a short distance and disappears in the sand. I attempt in 2 wheel drive, but immediately bog down. I change to 4WD and we continue on. About a quarter mile down, passing an estuary on the right, we stop at the beginning of a sand spit, which I later learn is covered at high tide. There are a few fisherman with hand nets and one ponga in the estuary. A couple of surfers are awaiting their return boat from Chacala, which is a short distance down the coast. The mouth of the harbor is here and judging from a fisherman wading, I would say the depth was about 4 feet with a little more to go to low tide and probably 6 or 7 at high tide.
We bargain with the boatman and for $100 pesos he takes us on an excursion into the estuary. This turns out to be a trip like Tovara at San Blas. The boatman tells us that many crocodiles live here, although we didn`t see any, but there were many signs of them on the banks. The ponga doesn`t have a motor but the boatman, Sr. Gonzales, has an array of differn`t poles for depth, warding off foliage, etc. He pushes on and tells us about the estuary and the many types of creatures that inhabit the waterways. He tells us that it would take about 5 hours to see it all. We hear tales of the days when pirates hid in the estuary waiting to capture another prize, that there are three hidden caves on the jungle hillside on the other side of the estuary where the pirates secreted their treasure., that the locals fear to go there because of the dense jungle and “leones”. We hear about Spanish coins that are found in the sands to this day.
After returning to the point of departure we see a few fisherman roasting lunch on sticks beneath a palapa and hear more stories, then we walk out to the end of the sand spit, which is the mouth of the estuary. I try and imagine the old pirate ships entering the lagoon, possibly with one of their prey in tow. It is also easy see that this could have been used as a port in the early days. With the abundance of shellfish, shrimp, fish, and such other harvests from the land as might be found, this must have been a natural place for earlier inhabitants.
After snapping a few photos, lunching and enjoying a brief siesta under a shady spot, we reluctantly wave goodbye and head home to another paradise. Another day on the BACK ROADS OF NAYARIT.
FOOTNOTES:
I love living in Mexico. Once out of the cities, which have adopted modern ways,we find a people who live very simple, and as I have been told often, especially by Vicky when she sees my many appliances and things I do in my life, “why do you gringos complicate your lives”. Quite often I find this to be true. But more on this in future stories. Even the poorest, such as Sr. Gonzalez, who cannot even afford oars for his boat, are friendly and accommodating. My friend Vicky, who has helped me with the language and comes with me on these trips because she loves nature and birds, even after working all night at the hospital, is another typical example.
BIRD LOVERS:
On this trip we encountered the following birds: King Bird, Grey Flycatcher, Kiskide, Orilos, Humming birds, Little Blue Heron, Great Egret, White form of Reddish Egret, Cormorants, Sand Piper, Stilt, Snowy Egret and Avocet. (Not being an expert on birds, my spelling may be off a tad, and of course there is the Spanish translation).
About the Author:
"After spending many years in the Pacific and Asia as a career Marine, Bob settled on the village of Rincon de Guayabitos. He has a small bed and breakfast and takes folks on jeep trips to those out of the way places that tourists don`t usually see.. He writes stories of THE BACK ROADS OF NAYARIT, some of which may be found at the Jaltemba Bay Folk Website"
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