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Baja 2000 ESCAPE
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Our thinking was, "Let’s do something different to celebrate 2000." With that wish we embarked upon our great adventure. Not only was it our first winter holiday with the trailer, it was our first road travel in Mexico. Both of these proved surmountable. We went, and had a wonderful vacation.
 Baja Winters advertised in last winter’s RV Times. We were in touch to find out what kind of caravan they promoted at such a reasonable price. What we found out made sense. We would go down in a group, have the holiday of our choice and come back when we chose. As it turned out, 29 of us, plus leaders, went across the border in January and had the first night together. Some rigs opted to stay awhile, others wanted to do other things. Only eight of us came all the way back across the border in the March group. Some came north with us, but crossed at Tecate because they were going east. So the individualization for a trip of this nature was easily accomplished by each participant. Everyone ended up enthusiastic and full of praise for the concept.
We met our group at the Chula Vista KOA. We not only shopped, bought extra gasoline, and had the car serviced, but Jan Brown of Baja Winters took us across the border on the Trolley to Tijuana where we got our Visa Permits. We paid for them at the Banamex, in Tijuana, and then returned to Chula Vista. That meant that all our documents were in order for the Tuesday morning crossing. We had procured our passports, additional health insurance, and Mexican vehicle insurance papers before leaving Canada. We did the preferred first time venture, and ended up staying a month at San Pedrito RV, 5 kms south of Todos Santos. Once unhooked from the trailer we were free to roam.
 We explored a lot of Baja California Sur. We had three different days in Cabo San Lucas, window shopping, walking the docks, having a glass boat ride to see the Land’s End rocks and beaches up close, shopping at the market on the dock to buy presents for the grandchildren, visiting the glass factory, eating out, watching whales at the whale Watchers Pub in the Hotel Finisterre, having lobster at Enriques, and enjoying the wonderful photo opportunity at Georgios for two breakfast outings.
San Jose Del Cabo was our choice for four visits. On the way there we explored two swimming and snorkeling beaches, Playa Santa Maria and Playa Chileno. At both of these one is able to rent snorkeling gear and beach umbrellas, and there is ample parking. These beaches are favoured by the Mexicans as well as the tourists, and at both of them there are plenty of vendors, selling everything from jewelry to blankets and even fruit and drink. San Jose has some extremely remarkable hotels. We had a lunch at the Westin Regina. There are five floors, and separate buildings hugging a big cliff. We entered on the third floor, and we went down to the restaurant. This hotel won awards for their distinctive architecture. It fits into the area without being seen from the road. What fun it would be to see through all the hotels. More are being built all the time. Lloyd had car trouble and went seeking a mechanic in San Jose. The problem was the pipe going into the muffler had let go. Indeed it was completely gone, and we had an extremely noisy car. Two Mexicans designed and made a new sleeve to fit the space. It cost 100 pesos. Everyone was happy, and we have not had any problems since. The Mexicans know how to keep an old car going!
Speaking of Mexican driving, most of their older cars were emitting much gaseous looking emissions from their tailpipes. Some could hardly get up some of the hills, and seemed on their last legs. Most were noisy. We looked on in horror at the number of persons travelling in the back of trucks. We in BC, are so conscious of a seat belt for everyone. The bus service all over Mexico is excellent. The lower Baja cities are well served with reasonable priced fares, and there is frequent and reliable service.
Back to San Jose Del Cabo. We found the RV repair place called Wahoo. Wahoo has a good supply of parts and will service motor homes and trailers. It is the only RV service shop in the area.
The drive from Cabo San Lucas through San Jose is the best road in the whole of the Baja. It is a four lane stretch, going out to the airport. The cars drive too fast, and there are only a few turn arounds for rigs, but it sure was welcome, after travelling on inferior and narrow roads for over 1000 miles.
From the border to Ensenada there was a toll road, which followed the Pacific, and was also a good four lane highway. Just getting on this was tortuous in both directions, and we followed our Wagonmaster religiously. Even with radio directions, some were lost and had to be rounded up by the tailgunner on the way back.
The road down, in Baja California Norte, was very narrow. Below Colonia Vicente Guerrero, we were slowed down by potholes, some so close together that they could not be avoided. We went over the border on January 11, and the traffic was light, so we were fortunate to be able to straddle the centre line and avoid the worst of the holes. The wagonmaster would radio us of oncoming traffic and the tail gunner would watch from behind to see if someone was wanting to get through and pass the caravan. We travelled in small groups of about six rigs. We were asked to keep about two hundred metres apart. The wagonmaster would radio when it was safe to send a person up through to pass us. Then we would signal them around with our left turn signal, keeping in constant touch with the leaders to ascertain conditions. In that way we did not hinder the everyday traffic of the Baja. We felt good about this courtesy arrangement, and many times a car or truck would signal a thank you to us. There is nothing so daunting as a long caravan, and having to stay behind them. We felt that Mexican commerce, especially the 18 wheelers, should indeed be given our full consideration, so they could get on with their business! Gasoline was not a problem in most areas. However south of Guerrero Negro we were glad we had 10 gallons of gas in the trunk. The Pemex at Catavina was not in operation. That meant one long leg of the trip gave gas problems for us going down and coming back. Our range was about 300 kms per tank full. We kept topped up just in case! Eighteen wheelers coming at us were another matter. We slowed right down, and pulled over as far as was safe. There were no shoulders to the roads, and often the edges were jagged. Many times the safest way was to stop entirely. Again the radios were invaluable. We knew before hand what to expect, and drove accordingly.
On the way back up, we were amazed that the roads were not as bad! I think some filling of pot holes had happened while we were away. We were, after all, in Baja Sur for five weeks. But there was another factor. We were used to driving in Mexico by now. The roads were better in Baja Sur, a little bit wider, and some even had a wee bit of shoulder. Baja Norte’s roads were still narrow, but, relative to what we had been driving on, they were passable.
Our drive North was not altogether without incident. On the trip down, the hill into El Rosario had been our first challenge. It is twisty, and steep in spots. There are about six of these hill sections on the highway as it winds back and forth from the Pacific side to the Sea of Cortez. These hills are perhaps the most challenging sections, especially if one meets 18 wheelers.
We were ascending the torturous El Rosario hill coming north. Pat Parker was driving his fifth wheel behind us. Bev radioed that an 18 wheeler was approaching. As the big truck rounded a bend coming down towards us, he was well over the centre line and travelling fast. We were just coming into the next turn, and hugging the cliff side, and we came to a stop. As the truck came at us we heard his air brakes, and then he was gone. There was no shoulder on the outside. Indeed it was a steep drop off. The driver had to go around us and back to the centre of the highway. How he did it was a miracle. We inched ahead saying a thankful prayer that we survived. What happened behind us was the same story. The 18 wheeler was back on the wrong side of the road approaching Pat’s Ford truck and Tahoe fifth wheel. Pat stopped and closed his eyes. "This is it," he thought. But the driver got around him too. When Kathy came back on the radio, all she said was, "Wow, that was close." And it was! Thank goodness that we were not travelling close to each other. Thank goodness that the 18 wheeler had good air brakes and a skilled? (lucky) driver. We all could have gone over that cliff!
We had gone on our orientation drive around the Cabo area, with Pat and Kathy in their Ford diesel truck. We were coming back to San Pedrito RV, having just left Cabo San Lucas. We never saw the vehicle coming. He came over the top of a hill, and clipped Pat’s wonderful large automatic mirror. It was a very loud sound, and we were all afraid for the truck. It was over and done with in a flash. His mirror had hit ours. All we can hope is that he had to replace his mirror as well. The truck had no marks, but Pat’s electric mirror was a mess.
Pat was able to get a replacement mirror of the same size in La Paz at the Ford dealer. When he asked for it, it was in stock. This made us realize that with the narrow roads, losing a mirror is a common occurrence.
 The Baja is a desolate land for the most part. Going down we learned of the Boojum tree, (Cirio) the El Cardon and the Elephant Tree. The desert is rich with cacti of many species, and most of the plants bloom in the summer after the rains.
We had had no rain from the time we left Vancouver on Jan 4, until we returned to San Diego on March 4. Then it rained all of our way back up California, Oregon and Washington. We could certainly afford to give some of that rain to the dust bowl that is the Baja. Washing the car was a necessary chore at San Pedrito We could not complain. Every day was beautiful, cool at night, and early morning, but shorts and T shirts were worn during the daytime.
It was hot between 1 and 3 PM, and we copied the Mexicans. It was siesta time! Indeed there was no reason to go to town then. Everything closed down. This was pointed out to us, time after time. We left San Jose to drive to La Paz. On our first visit some of us had ordered glasses. Now it was time to pick them up. We had a lovely drive along the Sea of Cortez, past many small towns and the East Cape beach areas. We finally found where we wanted to park the car, at the CCC Supermercado. We ran to get a taxi into town and arrived at Optica Americana, on Calle Nicolas Bravo with 10 minutes to spare. Both Bev and Kathy Parker were very pleased with their new glasses. The store was kept from closing until 1:10! Then every other place we were interested in was closed! The Parkers and ourselves opted to travel at a slower pace than the group intended on our way back. We left San Pedrito on February 25, with the intention of joining the group in Mulege on March 4. We had spent lunch time only, in Loreto on our way down, and wished to have two nights there, and time to explore inland to San Javier. We stayed at Loreto Shores RV and made arrangements for six of us to go to San Javier the next day with Carlos. The drive is rated for four wheelers, and San Javier can be reached from west or east. San Javier has an arroyo which makes it a fertile valley in the midst of the desert. The church was moved in order to use the land more efficiently. The old crypt is now a water catchment. The crops are garlic, alfalfa, and they are famous for their white onions.
Francisco Javier founded the San Javier Mission church in 1899, two years after the Loreto church was founded. At that time there were Indians and Spaniards living in the area. Now there are only the farmers and ranchers in the surrounding vicinity. The church is a tourist focal point. They conduct tours, in Spanish! The church is beautiful as are all the mission churches, and old by North American standards. If one does not want to stay in the expensive lower Baja, the beaches of Bahia Concepcion beckon. There, one can dry camp along with a large number of rigs. Maria Isabela RV, or The Orchard’s RV are close by for overnight visits, to recharge batteries, and to shop in Mulege. The laundry was the drawing card for most of the beach campers. It was worth a night on electricity, just to get ready for the next week. Some stay the whole winter on the beaches. Maria Isabela RV was very pretty with gracious palm trees and bougainvillea in profusion. Besides the popular laundry, they had a very welcome bakery.
When we were at Maria Isabela RV, we had a trip to the Cave drawings. These are a Mexican National treasure, and you have to arrange to go with a guide. Six of us went with Salvador, who was very knowledgeable. He first took us into town to be signed up with the authorities. Then we went past ranches, and wonderful desert plants to the rendezvous spot where we disembarked, making sure we had our water with us. It was a half hour walk in the heat to get to the mountains. We made the first set of cave drawings and were very impressed. The drawings date from before the Spaniards were in the area, 1500 or before. We did not manage to go to the second site which entailed wading a stream. We were glad we seniors had done so well going up and over the rocks. We were hot when we got to the ranch, and gratefully ate Burritos and drank ice cold cervesas Pacificas.
From Maria Isabela RV we also visited the Saturday Pig Roast at the Hotel Serenedad. Reservations had to be made well in advance. They had a great feast, and the Mariachi band was the best we heard. People fly in to have this experience. When we passed the hotel on our return trip, there were about five planes on the tarmac. 
Kathy and Pat, with Lloyd and Bev, decided half way through our month at San Pedrito, that we would go by ferry over to the other side to the Mexican mainland, and see the Copper Canyon. We called this foray another one of our Mexican experiences.
We got to Pichilingue about 11 AM. We thought we would get our ticket, and then the day would be ours. Instead we were put on a wait list. We worried about what that meant. We were told that we would have to return at 8 PM. That gave us the most of a day, and we were so far out of La Paz, that we decided to arrange for the car’s parking and then see the beaches. Tecolote Beach was full of RVs. It was windy there that day, but we had lunch at the palapa on the beach, and returned to the Cantamar Hotel. This hotel caters to a diving clientele. We rented a small room, and arranged to leave the car there while we were gone. We ate dinner at one of the palapas at the nearby beach, and had one of the best meals of our trip. We got to the ferry at 7:30, and the boys went back to park the car. At 8:30 our names were called to line up for our tickets, Then we were allowed out onto the loading area.
Again we stood, as the trucks were loaded on the main deck, all of them backwards, and packed very close together. The top deck was even harder for the drivers. They drove on and then backed in to be just as packed as on the lower floor. They then had the problem of backing off the ship. There were no RVs this time, but it was commented how very hard it would be to back a trailer or a fifth wheel onto this ferry. When all the trucks were in place we were allowed to board. The time was 9:50, and we had been standing all that time. Pat said it sure made BC Ferries look good!
Walk-on passengers are not the reason for this ferry. There is one room, with 50 airplane type chairs. We each got a chair, but that did not mean we slept. There was one women’s bathroom, but two for men. (The truck drivers were mostly men, no doubt.) Half way through the night someone thought to open two doors in the room, and that freshened the air enough for most to get a wee bit of sleep. And where were people sleeping? The truckers had mattresses, pillows and sleeping bags and they chose to be in every nook and cranny on the outer top deck. People were on the floors everywhere as well. Mothers cradled babies, and people ate their picnics. Most were at home with the situation. We were up to see the dawn, and the intricate channels and reefs the ship was navigating coming into Topolobampo. We watched the pilot boat come alongside. Topolobampo was a beautiful, but smoggy, harbour. Maybe the ferry got us there, but we opted for flying back to La Paz. We were gone for a wonderful six days, but that is not a Baja story.
Actually there were others that took side trips too. Some flew to Guadalajara and others took the ferry to Mazatlan. We returned to Todos Santos in time to say good-bye to some of our January trip friends. They were returning north, and then a February group would be coming south. Sally and Dave Williamson were Baja Winter’s hosts at the park. Kirk and Jan Brown had always done things for the people who were staying on at San Pedrito RV. Kirk had to stay behind this year, because of health reasons, and Sally and Dave did a splendid job. They planned the orientation time for each group as well as a pot luck meal each time. They were there for our every question, and planned a beach outing over to Chileno Beach once a week, for snorkeling and swimming. The beach at San Pedrito (Playa San Pedrito) was for surfing. Some mornings one could spot well over 20 surfers. It was also a whale watcher’s delight. People could be seen sitting on the beach for hours at a time, watching through their glasses. Sometimes they were rewarded with quite a show. January and February are the good whale watching months in Baja Sur. We fell in love with Todos Santos. The important ATM would spill us out pesos when needed. We learned in time where to shop, how to do phone messages at the Message Centre, and we hooked up to Hot Mail for an e mail address. Then every trip into town, we would send a message back home. We even received five letters! This was a real joy. When one is away for an extended trip, it is gratifying to know that everything is going along well with the family.
Exploring close by from San Pedrito was another joy. We visited Palm Beach, (Playa Las Palmas) which is very beautiful. At one time there was activity here, and beautiful Palm trees had been planted. We heard a rumour that a hotel chain was interested in this beach. Like San Pedrito, it was not a swimming beach, but one could enjoy a quiet beach life by having a picnic here.
Playa Punta Lobos was the fishermen’s beach. Around 4 PM the pangas would come in and their fish would be collected by trucks. They were not allowed to sell privately, unless of course, they did it undetected. The shrimp boats would unload here as well, but we did not see them do it. They were rather large vessels, and could be seen fishing off of our beach day and night. photoBaja_California_pelicanbaja2000.jpg>
The beach to the south of us was Playa Los Cerritos. It used to be an RV Park, but the beach is now used for dry camping. The fee is minimal, and the beach is popular with the surf boarding crowd. There were many Canadians there, the day we visited.
All the way south to Cabo San Lucas there are beaches, many of them being developed with hotels and housing. The view coming north from Cabo is truly breathtaking.
We tried only two of many recommended eating places in Todos Santo. We had a beautiful Sunday brunch at Casa Marguerita. We sat in their beautiful front yard, and the service and quality of the food was excellent. We had a dinner, at lunch time at Las Fuentes. We were delighted with our shrimp dishes, and also with the gorgeous flowers in the impeccable yard. There is a gift shop adjacent to Las Fuentes, where we found an excellent inventory of Mexican crafts.
The other place that we frequented for meals was The Trees restaurant, in Pescadero. What fun to see a tree right in the middle of the restaurant!
They had many specials for meals, and hosted movies and dances. They were close to Playa Los Cerritos, and not too far from Playa San Pedrito. Mexican people everywhere were helpful and courteous. Carlos and Salvador, Jamie and others drove us to see Mexico off the highway. Isabel sewed Lloyd’s two pants with patches so that they could still be used. We made many visits to the palapa where we bought fresh local vegetables and fruit. Innumerable people fed us. Many of the vendors who came to us, sold us water, jewelry, blankets, hats, and Mexican food such as, fish, bread, homemade pies, enchiladas and more. Even the highway stops we had to make while the Mexican Army checked for illegal guns or drugs, were not onerous. The soldiers were very young, and could not speak English, but as long as one of us stayed in the car while the other showed the trailer, we were allowed to go ahead quickly. The Topos, (speed bumps extraordinario) were a necessary nuisance, but well signed.
We were visitors in another culture, and indeed another time, and we were blessed by the experience. We will return.
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by Bev and Lloyd Hargrove
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